an haute celebration of West African food, art and culture

What’s new? 

Ambitious newcomer Akoko pairs art and food to reimagine contemporary African fine-dining for London

Behind the scenes

First-time restaurateur Aji Akokomi, a British Nigerian entrepreneur, and Brightonian chef Theo Clench, who may have won a Michelin star at Portland and Bonhams but hadn’t even tasted West African food before this January.

How it happened: Akokomi launched Akoko (already three years in the planning) in late 2020 for a few short pre-lockdown weeks with chef William Chilila. Chilila moved on (to Cork Street pan-African Stork), and Clench stepped in: “It’s the start of a very exciting journey for me as a chef.”

The concept

“I wanted to get everyone involved in creating an African story,” says Akokomi of his celebration of West African food, art, culture, music. The art came first - he actually purchased the stunning seed pod sculpture by Nigerian-born Niyi Olagunju even before he’d found a site - followed by hundreds of pieces of bespoke tableware from ceramicists across the UK including Sarah Jerath and Isatu Hyde who have drawn inspiration from Nigerian mid-century pottery to create new pieces fit for a luxurious African restaurant parsing its identity in London. 

As diners, we’re part of the story too, sipping on natural wines (the Czech Saint Laurent poured en magnum is a treat) and impeccable cocktails (Negroni with date and cacao; vodka soda with scotch bonnet), cocooned in a soothing clay-walled room that aims to capture, says Akokomi, the feeling of tranquility that comes with leaving Lagos for the country. It’s just the concept for these times: destinations may be off-limits, but destination restaurants, happily, are not.

What’s cooking

Clench did ‘a crash course’ in traditional Nigerian dishes with Akokomi, dishes he then dismantled and rebuilt again and again and again during lockdown until they were tasting menu-ready. When Akoko originally opened, the menu was £59; it’s now a self-confident £95 for ten courses (six courses, £75) of such West African classics as suya (spicy grilled meat, here lamb), maafe (peanut stew) and egusi (melon seed stew). 

The first appetiser sets the tone: a bite-sized yam croquette served, fittingly, on a clay pedestal, fully the equal of its luxurious truffle garnish (watch Netflix’s High on the Hog to see how important yam is in West Africa). Smoked pumpkin ‘miyan taushe’ with crab is warming and comforting, more smoke than spice; one’s head is at no risk of being blown off here. 

Best of all is Norfolk quail breast and confit leg with fragrant yassa hollandaise - Clench’s Michelin-star-winning form very much in evidence. Desserts are compelling: a sphere of baobab ice cream bleeding crimson hibiscus juice; caramelised agege bread with grilled pineapple and iru miso (locust bean); and an unforgettable passion fruit ‘pebble’ enrobed in darkest black Ivory Coast chocolate. Akoko offers an experience both utterly joyous and deadly serious, just one interpretation of what new African cuisine in London might be. Next stops: Ikoyi, Chuku’s, Chishuru.

Signature dishes

Jollof rice is served with swagger, in its own little pot, the lid of which is removed with a metaphorical ‘ta-da!’ and a literal puff of smoke. 

This is the dish that will have African aunties tut-tutting - Clench admits it’s always a nerve-wracking moment - at the doll’s portion prettied up with snipped chives and puffed rice. Rather than stoke the fierce debate between competing jollofs, Clench’s borrows diplomatically from Nigeria, Ghana and Senegal, and keeps everybody happy.

Best for

Grounded gourmet travellers. Lagos will have to wait.
21 Berners Street, London, W1; akoko.co.uk

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